A Stranger in Paradise...The City Girl Braves the Great Outdoors!

I am and always will be a City Gal.  To me competing in a sport means  going to a sale at Bloomingdale's and running to get the big dressing room with the triple mirror.  The Great Outdoors usually consists of the time I spend going from my apartment to the garage for my car, or if I am really looking for a major outdoor adventure, going to watch one of my grandchildren play a sport and sitting in the bleachers! Thus, when my husband and I decided to visit Yosemite National Park, it was quite a departure from my usual kind of vacation.  Not only was it to be an encounter with raw nature...it was taking place in the winter time!

We were headed to a January trade show that my husband had to attend in San Francisco.  We usually coupled that show with a trip to Napa and Sonoma visiting the wonderful wineries and restaurants that area is famous for and would stay in one of the lovely hotels or inns where we were pampered, spa-ed, wined and dined ...but this time he wanted the outdoor, rugged experience of winter in Yosemite ! OY! Who was this man  and what did he do with my husband?

Since I was the one in charge of finding the best air fare, hotel, restaurants, etc. when we traveled, I got busy immediately.  I found the Ahwanee Lodge in Yosemite and it appealed to me at once.  Ruggedly beautiful but filled with amenities... I made reservations at once.

 

 Once in San Francisco and ensconsed in the Grand Hyatt Hotel on Union Square, my husband was able to attend his trade show while I made my way to the San Francisco Design Center and actually did some work of my own!  I shopped in lovely stores, found my way down to Fisherman's Wharf, bought lots of See's candy and generally enjoyed sight-seeing in this beautiful city.  In the evenings we had wonderful dinners with my husband's colleagues, many of whom were from the San Francisco area and knew the most marvelous restaurants.  And at last, the trade show was over...we were able to leave on our new adventure.  We picked up a rental car, loaded in our heavy winter gear and off we went.  The ride from San Francisco was long and often boring.  It was winter and the landscape was brown and austere.  As we progressed eastward it got colder and colder...and as it got later, darkness began to fall.  We stopped for hot coffee and asked directions for the best way to the Ahwanee Lodge in Yosemite.  The local man said to enter the park from the back entrance...What did we know?  We took his advice...MISTAKE! 

It was freezing cold and the roads were icy.  Flurries of snow whipped across the windshield making visibility difficult.  We entered the park from above and were on a  narrow two lane road ...two lanes for motorcycles maybe, because it seemed that if a car came from the opposite direction we would be forced right over the cliff!.  I looked out of the window on my side and noticed that in some places there was no guard rail and a sheer drop down. I chose to look no more!  My husband drove with skill and care but I could see his jaw muscles tense as he drove forward on the narrow, winding mountain road that had patches of ice and no guard rails...

When at last we realized that we had completed the descent into the floor of the park and saw signs to Ahwanee, we were both stiff with tension.  The sight before us as we drove up to the lodge was almost worth the stress of getting there.

 Warm yellow light poured from the mammoth windows.  The crunch of boots on the snow announced the approach of a bellman who came out immediately to help with our bags.  Once inside the building we were transfixed.  Soaring ceilings with great supporting beams crowned the enormous public rooms.  A fire roared in a fireplace that was as big as a small room. We were greeted warmly and sent for hot drinks while our room was readied.  It seemed later than it was because it got dark so early so we decided to go right into the dining room for dinner.

The dining room was amazing.  the ceilings were thirty four feet high and there were sugar pine trestles that criss-crossed the room.  Giant chandeliers gave light and the room was grounded by tables covered in crisp linens.  The aroma of food reached us and we realized that we were indeed starved!

Ahwanee Dining room

 After a dinner that was delicious and satisfying, we made our way up to our room.  It was decorated with "rustic luxury" .  We unpacked and then, exhausted we fell into bed and slept off the tension of the day.   

In the morning I looked out of the window and saw that our room overlooked the park.  We could see the snow covered trees and foliage.  It looked like a department store Christmas window!

After breakfast we put on the parkas and boots and made our way outside.  The hotel looked beautiful in daylight.  Surrounded by trees 

and with the sheer cliff 

behind it. Snow laden branches nudged by the breeze dropped a fine mist of white powder that sparkled in the dazzling sunlight.  We caught a tour bus that runs through the park and toured the valley area.  We saw a stunning display of Native American crafts and came upon little frozen streams and then looked up to see that we were in a valley surrounded by such Incredible beauty.  I felt very tiny and insignificant in this abundance of nature's majesty.

 Everywhere we turned there was  another glorious sight to see... 

The waterfall that hung frozen and still...          

The silence...and then suddenly the sound of an animal scurrying in the bushes, probably foraging for food.

The park was not crowded like it is in summer, filled with campers.  The other tourists were friendly and interesting and by the time our little bus returned to the hotel, we were chatting and discussing the magical day we had shared.

                                                      

We sat in the great lounge, in front of a roaring fire in the giant fireplace and sipped drinks and nibbled hors d' ouvres.  I was so glad we had decided to come to Yosemite. 

For the next few days we hiked (yes, I said hiked...and it was outdoors...in the snow!) through the park. We immersed ourselves in nature and the beauty of our surroundings.  I loved the outdoors and I loved coming into the beautiful hotel after a day outside, to eat in the majestic dining room, have drinks by the fire in the great lounge and converse with the lovely folks we met there.  The outdoors was glorious...the walks, the education and time away from home to renew and relax in a place I never expected to fall in love with...a really special vacation!

The last day of our stay I sat next to a woman who was there for a cooking event.  She asked if I was attending and  sadly said I was not. She was to present a demonstration the next day and she was kind enough to give me a copy of the recipe she would be preparing... 

                                    Salmon en croute...

                                                     

1  1/2 pound whole filet of salmon, skinned 
1 large shallot minced
4 thinly sliced large mushrooms
2 handfuls of fresh baby spinach
creme fraiche
juice of 1 lemon
curley parsley chopped
salt and pepper
2 sheets of thawed frozen puff pastry
1 egg, beaten
butter

1-Saute chopped shallot in 2 tbsp butter...add sliced mushrooms...then add spinach and wilt...add lemon juice, 1 tbsp. of creme fraiche and a small handful of parsley.  Ad a pinch of salt and some pepper.

2-Once it is combined and softened drain in a sieve over a bowl and reserve the liquid for sauce...let the spinach mixture cool separately.

3-   Butterfly the salmon filet (or have the fish store do it for you) and open it flat.  Place filling in the center and close.  Season both sides of the filet with a bit of salt and pepper.

4- Place a sheet of pastry dough on a lightly floured surface and place the stuffed filet on it...place the second sheet on top and trim so there is a slight overlap...seal the edges well by crimping and brush with beaten egg.

5- ..for a well browned bottom, bake on a baking stone ...or on a sheet of parchment paper on a large baking sheet. Bake at 350 degrees for about 15 minutes or until golden brown.

6- While it bakes heat the reserved liquid from the filling and add 2 tbsp. creme praiche and a few splashes of white wine.  Blend and serve as sauce.

A nice sauvignon blanc...a salad... and you have perfection!!