Magical...Mystical...Venice

Of all of the places we have traveled, I think Venice is one of my most favorite.  There is an aura of mystery and magic that seems to follow one through the narrow streets and over the bridges...as you round a corner to be surprised by what awaits you...a shop with exquisite laces...hand blown glass goblets in a blaze of amazing colors...beautiful maquerade masks displayed alongside  fabulous costumes that recall another era...and the canals all around you.  I love this city built on water... with boats, gondolas, water taxis, work barges, vaporettos... but no cars anywhere!  Here one can feel like the modern word is yet to come.

The first time I went to Venice I was 18 years old and traveling with my aunt.  We stayed in a gorgeous suite ovelooking the Grand Canal at the Hotel Bauer-Grunwald.  I loved the romantic ambiance of the city and promised myself that one day I would return with my husband and dance in the moonlight in the Piazza San Marco...and...I did!

My husband and I have visited Venice several times, but it was the time that a friend recommended we not stay at one of the grand hotels, but rather at a small out of the way Bed and Breakfast that we really savored this amazing the city.  We arrived by train and hired a water 

taxi to deliver us to the B & B.  As we approached, a group of blue and white poles became visible and marked our location. 

 A lovely little dock decorated with bright red geraniums was a welcome sight to these two exhausted travelers.  The water taxi driver placed our bags on the dock and then we stepped out behind them onto the dock and then the sidewalk that ran in front
of the building.  No bell-man was there to take our bags, so weary and hungry (and cranky) we shlepped them into the building.  We were greeted by a pleasant young man who was reading a book. We were given our key and I asked for help with the bags...he seemed surprised but put his book down and helped us to our room. 

It was small and old fashioned but totally charming.  There were french doors that led to a  balcony that overlooked the narrow side canal and if you really stretched, you could see the Grand Canal at the end of the street.  It was more of a residential area
and a nice little next door restaurant sent succulent aromas into the air and up onto our balcony.  We Washed, changed and made a bee-line for the source of the food smells...and were not disappointed!

We were told that there were two vapoertto stops nearby.  And the rest of the time we walked...and walked...and walked!  We visited the fabulous Peggy Guggenheim collection and took a heartwrenching tour of the Jewish Ghetto. As we walked through the streets there I could not help thinking of the Jews in the Warsaw Ghetto...of being ghetto bound at all...of being a Jew of that time and the suffering visited upon them.

The Old Synagogue in the Venice Jewish Ghetto

My husband's most favorite activity was riding the vaporetto (water buses).  We were able to get from place to place by walking a short distance to a vaporetto stop and then boarding the boat along with tourists and native Venetians and being transported quickly to our next destination. His delight in navigating us from place to place via the water buses had me calling him "Il Vapo"! My favorite activity was ...of course ... shopping!

Shops lined narrow, ally-like streets, surrounded piazzas and popped up all over.  One could purchase items created in Venice like Murano glass or the exquisite laces made by local women. Leathers, silks and beautiful masks were displayed in the shops, and the local economy surely saw us coming!!!

We bought gifts for our children and items for ourselves.  In one shop my husband bought me a Herend figure to add to my collection.  It was a beautiful cobra with a golden hood.  The man in the shop told Peter that this piece was only available in Europe and was a limited edition.  And indeed, after checking here, that was true.

I had one more promise  to fulfill to myself.
I wanted to dance with my husband in San Marco Square.  I knew that the Florian Caffe had music in the evenings.  The Florian Caffe...I had visited there with my aunt all those many years ago and watched couples dancing under the stars.
On our last evening in Venice, after dinner, I guided us toward San Marco Square.  As we approached we could hear the music playing and as we entered the piazza, we saw people sitting at the tables and several couples dancing.  We found a table and listened for a while as we sipped our coffee...and then, we danced...under a full moon in San Marco Square...

We had many delicious meals in Venice.  We just would just stop into a restaurant and hope for the best...and the best was what we usually got.  Simply prepared foods...pastas with vegetables...lots of seafood and simple meat dishes...and rich delicious desserts. 

 I was fascinated to learn that Tramisu comes from this area of Italy...and here is the recipe that I use...it is from Tyler Florence, one of my favorite TV chefs...
                                              Tiramisu

                                                           
                                                           
Ingredients
7 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup sweet marsala, plus 2 tablespoons
8 ounces mascarpone, softened to room temperature
1 cup heavy cream
1 cup brewed espresso coffee
1 ounce dark chocolate
1/4 cup rum
1 teaspoon natural vanilla extract
48 ladyfingers
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder
Directions
Cream together egg yolks and sugar in a heatproof bowl set over a pot of simmering water. Add 1/3 cup of the marsala and continue to whisk until mixture is thick and doubled in volume. This is basically a zabaglione. Remove from heat. Stir in the mascarpone until completely blended.

In a chilled bowl, whip the heavy cream to soft peaks. Fold the whipped cream into the mascarpone mixture, to lighten.

In a small saucepan, combine espresso, chocolate, rum, vanilla, and remaining 2 tablespoons marsala. Heat gently, and stir to dissolve the chocolate. Then, chill the mixture to cool it down, about 15 minutes. Quickly dip each ladyfinger in the chilled coffee mixture and arrange in a single layer on a 9 by 13-inch glass baking pan. Do not soak the cookies or they will become too moist. Spread 1/2 the mascarpone cream evenly with a spatula on top of the dipped ladyfingers. Repeat with a second layer of dipped ladyfingers and remaining mascarpone cream. Sprinkle top with cocoa powder. Refrigerate for 2 hours before serving.

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My Herend Cobra