ITALY...The Sights and Tastes of Tuscany...

If you have ever visited Italy, you can understand the need to return again and again.  We had traveled there several times previously, but always moving around     ...Rome  ...Florence  ...Venice  ...Milano ... Riviera...  So when we planned this particular vacation I decided we should stay in one or two places and really become immersed in the areas. I started to search through the internet and kept coming back to a place just outside of Siena called the Villa Scacciapensieri (scattered dreams). I was sort of new to this kind of search so I asked a travel agent about the villa.  "How did you find out about it," she asked.  "...this is a travel agent's secret ..."

I just got lucky , because when I called Italy to make the reservation they told me that they were full but had just gotten a cancellation.  We booked for 5 days and then planned to drive up to the lake region for another 5 days. 
                                                                   
As we drove through the gates of the hotel we seemed transported back to another era.

                                                       

                                                                       
It was very early Fall and the weather was warm and balmy.  The sound of tennis balls being volleyed punctuated the stillness and the faint aroma of food cooking made us realize how hungry we were after our long drive.  We registered and were shown to a room that might have been decorated a hundred years ago, albeit with modern conveniences.

Our Room...

                                                                 
 Our view was stunning!  Through our window the city of Siena looked like a painting.   It seemed to be bathed in a golden aura (a color known to painters as sienna) a phenomenon which actually comes from the earth's dust surrounding the city and the light of the sun shining through it..

We unpacked, and although we were tired, decided to forego a nap and instead chose to explore this magical place we had come to.  This was a family villa that was built over 100 years ago.  Rooms had been added but the overall ambience was of a bygone time.  A dining terrace overlooked a lovely view and as we walked  bit further we came upon a sparkling blue swimming pool. 

Little terraces for reading or just quiet contemplation were tucked in between stands of  beautiful trees.  We doubled back and investigated the lobby area.  It was cozy and bright, decorated much like the guest rooms, in a charming, old fashiond way.  The bar area led into the dining room.  We made a reservation for dinner because we were just too exhausted to drive into Siena to look for a restaurant...we did not have high hopes as in-house dining rooms are usually mediocre. How wrong we were!  It was outstanding!

The dining room was simple and elegant.  The crystal sparkled and the linens were freshly laundered to a crisp whiteness.  The wait staff was efficient, polite and gracious...and the food...oh!...the food...was fantastic!

We ordered a salad and were presented with freshly picked vegetables, recently kissed by the Tuscan sun. A fabulous home-made gnocci, veal piccata, and just harvested baby green beans were the main course and  for dessert, a tiramisu so delicious I can still remember every mouthful all these years later!  The wine was local, and a steaming, frothy cappucino was the perfect ending to a perfect meal.  We had every breakfast and three more dinners there and not one disapppointed!

When we asked the  young woman at the desk about the best way to see the area she suggested we hire Paolo... a local young man brought up in the area, the son of an Italian mother and a British father.  He was starting a business taking small groups of tourists on private trips through the Tuscan hills.  Paolo was delightful, handsome and spoke impeccable English.  He took us to see Etruscan burial sites high in the hills (unusual as the Etruscans were thought to have  been close to the sea )...into the hill towns, a private tour of a major winery and the absolute highlight of our tour...lunch in the home of a local family!

Down a narrow, cobbled street in a centuries old hill town we walked, until we came to an open doorway.  We entered and were guided to a table set on a terrace overlooking the hills. 

                                                                   

The lady of the house was charming and very gracious.  A large (really large) antipasto was set out with a wonderful locally produced red wine.  Local olives, tomatoes, pickled onions, chunks of cheeses, caponata and an assortment of meats were arranged on a large platter.  A long loaf of thick-crusted bread sat on a wooden board and a small bowl of olive oil was placed beside each place setting.  I thought this was lunch...this was just the antipasto!!! A  soup followed  and then a Tuscan bread salad, then pasta with mushrooms, followed by a rabbit dish (the only offering that I refused...I simply could not contemplate eating  THUMPER!!!)  A succulent roasted chicken and veggies ended this eating orgy.  This woman was a world class chef!  But wait...there's more!  Home-made gelato and little almond cookies for dessert...FOOD COMA!

The Tuscan Bread Salad was a highlight for me.  With the exception of the rabbit (OY!) I had prepared some version of all the other dishes...but a bread salad was totally new to me.  With Paolo's help I got instructions from our hostess for this dish and it has long remained a family favorite.


   











Italian Bread Salad...Panzanella

1/2 to 2/3 loaf of day old crusty artisan bread cut in 1inch cubes.depending on loaf size  (bread cannot be soft...if it is, place in 300 oven to dry about 10 minutes...do not toast!)
1 1/2 cups diced fresh plum tomatoes
1/2 cup chiffonaded basil
2/3 cup extra virgin olive oil mixed with 2 tbsp. balsamic vinegar (use more or less according to your taste)
2 cloves of garlic finely diced (or mashed in a garlic press)
1 cup diced mozzarella cheese
1 cup thinly sliced red onion
1/2 cup grated parmigiana cheese
1 cup sliced pepperoni (optional)
2/3 cup sliced olives (optional)
1-Combine bread cubes, tomatoes, garlic, onion, basil, and blend with about half of oil and vinegar let stand about 5 minutes
2- Then add cheeses, olives and pepperoni and toss all together...add additional oil and vinegar and toss well.